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Big Easy is Still Tops for Music

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Imagine four recently retired baby boomers, life-long music lovers, who frequent the Yale and Railway clubs in Vancouver. We set off on a six-week road trip, travelling 14,000 kilometres on a quest to experience music in the deep South, where the roots of all modern music began. Our journey took us to New Orleans, the Mississippi Delta region, Nashville and Memphis. We sought out musicians playing the music that we love -- blues, jazz and rock 'n' roll. First stop, New Orleans.

“A quaint little drinking town with a hurricane problem" announced the sign in the store window. The first part of this statement was certainly untrue. New Orleans proved to be all that we had hoped for and more. It took just a few hours for us to fall in love with this city of glorious music, friendly people, spicy food and a unique downtown.

Louis Armstrong and jazz were both born here. Armstrong's love of music was developed on the street when he revelled in the sights and sounds of parades and funerals. He'd sneak into honkytonks to listen to the blues. He'd even attend the Sanctified church on a Sunday, singing for the congregation, who always applauded his efforts.

We waited patiently in line for two hours so as to be guaranteed tickets for a performance in Preservation Hall on our first night in New Orleans. This Hall has been part of jazz history since 1961 and it is definitely a priority for anyone visiting the Big Easy.

A mini-parade was quickly organized while we quenched our thirst with “Big Ass beers" purchased from the Irish pub across the narrow street. A grand marshall sporting a red suit led a brass band as colourfully costumed participants and second line followers boogied merrily past us. A special welcome for our first evening in New Orleans.

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